The Deep Dive

Long-form thoughts on trad, multipitch, and rope solo climbing

Testing the Fuse Jammer & Freebell - New LRS Cache Backup Devices

How did the Fuse Jammer and Freebell work on real pitches?

PSA: Clean Up Your Fixed Lines

From El Cap to local trad crags, fixed lines are becoming part of the standard playbook. They absolutely have their place: new routing, remote obje...

What knot do you use to re-fix a TRS rope?

Refixing the rope is a common practice to avoid rope damage while top rope soloing. After rappelling down from a primary anchor, especially if goin...

Top Rope Solo Tips for Better Autofeeding

These small habits make top rope soloing smoother, safer and more enjoyable.

How to Give Yourself a Soft Catch While Lead Rope Soloing

In lead rope soloing, you are your own belayer — which means you’re not just climbing the pitch… you’re actively thinking ahead about how every pot...

TAZ LOV2 vs TAZLOV3 for Top Rope Soloing

Taz Lov2 vs. Taz Lov3 — they look almost identical, but there’s one key difference.

Understanding Crossload Prevention for Top Rope Soloing

Crossload Prevention in Top Rope Soloing isn’t for the Fear of Breaking Carabiners...

How do you rack gear for hard trad redpoints?

A close look at the rack Pietro Vidi used for his send of Magic Line (5.14c) in Yosemite.

Cams for Bouldering?

For highball bouldering, a rope can be just as valuable as a stack of pads.

The Smoothest TRS Gear Setup

Over the years of top rope soloing, I’ve tried a bunch of different device combos. Some worked okay, some were downright annoying mid-climb.