Why I love Fix & Following
Well first... what is Fix & Follow?
It’s an advanced multipitch technique where the leader fixes the rope at each anchor, and the follower top rope solos the fixed line.
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Why it’s awesome:
- You haul up only the rope you need for the next pitch
- And, this rope hauling is done after the protection is removed - you don't pull extra rope through rope drag! (a major portion of multipitch outing fatigue)
- The follower gets to smoothly top rope solo, easily auto-feeding with the rope already hanging below (usually hanging straight down, with no knots)
- The leader can refuel, check the topo, take photos, and have a plan for the next lead (it's great to fix and follow in block leads)
- Major energy savings and faster transitions — especially on long routes
I don’t recommend this if there are other parties below you (that hanging rope can get in the way), but on a quiet wall? It’s a dream.
My go-to setup for Fix & Follow multipitch days:
- Spoc + Micro Traxion, each on auto lockers
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TRS Neck Lanyard to hold the top device upwards
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Flex-Link Anti-Crossload Protector for the bottom device
- PAS for quick anchors and mid-pitch transitions
- GriGri in case I need to self-lower mid-route
(It might look familiar - it is just my TRS cragging kit!)
Just the other day, I topped out a long easy pitch with brutal rope drag. Instead of pulling half the rope through all that drag, only then to begin belaying - I just fixed the line and let my partner top rope solo up. I rehydrated and got set for the next pitch. The rope wasn't pulled up until belaying the next pitch, hauled up with one hand using one of the progress capturing pulleys that the follower has for TRS, all while it hangs straight down with minimal drag. I can't overstress how much energy is wasted pulling extra rope through rope drag when using normal multipitch top belay tactics.
That’s Fix & Follow — an advanced multipitch technique that keeps the flow going and saves a ton of energy pitch after pitch.
Fix & Follow Limitations:
In addition to being an advanced system beyond standard multipitch skills, the system also falls short in certain scenarios. It is easy enough to use it on many pitches of a route, but still give an active top-belay when necessary.
Doesn't work well for traverses - The rope weight will pull sideways against you, the devices don't feed as well, and you potentially risk a factor 1 fall if the traverse is at the end of the pitch
You can't down climb - if you charge into a hard section and wish to retreat back to a good hold to shake and chalk, the TRS system will prevent this. It is best for easy flowy terrain
You can't easily lower to retry a section or a pitch (well, you can't when belayed with an ATC Guide either, but you could if being belayed by a GriGri)
Don't do this on busy routes! Your rope hangs straight down and would be in the way of other parties. Be courteous!
>> Watch: Why I Love Fix & Follow
