"Re-Fixing, Re-Anchoring, Directionals, Redirects..."
As you rappel into a route to setup a fixed line for top rope soloing, there are a variety of techniques for rigging the rope to stay away from sharp edges and keep it in line with the route.
But the terms can sound like insider jargon. For example, what is the difference between re-fix and re-anchor? Directionals and re-directs? Those pairs of words can mean the same things. We try the use the most precise and simple language.
Here’s two concepts, while often described with different words, will make a large difference in top rope solo success. A little extra thought during setup can make a noticeable difference in how the rope feeds and how cleanly you can climb back out.
Re-anchoring especially is often a missed step, and can ruin a rope...
Re-Anchor (aka refix)
A re-anchor involves tying the rope directly to an intermediate piece of protection (note: “fixing” is a wall climbing synonym to “anchoring” a rope.) This point of protection takes all of your weight as you go below it, creating a small amount of slack in the rope above. If you re-anchor on the vertical face once rappelled in over a cliff edge, it can help keep the rope from weighting repeatedly over a sharp edge or other abrasive feature.
A re-anchor point can be one cam, since it is backed up by a primary anchor above.
Note that whenever you re-anchor, you have to stop climbing and tether yourself to the anchor point in order to slack the rope and undo this knotted rope point (we used to discuss a slipknot option to re-anchor in a way that is removable one-handed but have discussed this option less as it’s proven cumbersome in practice). So, be sure to have your PAS with you as part of your TRS kit. If the top out or sharp edge feature is at a difficult move that you want to rehearse, a better option is a rope protector.
Which knot should you use to re-anchor? We prefer Alpine butterflies, but a clove hitch works great as well.
This photo shows how the piece takes the load from the climber below it, while the rope still routes to the primary anchor above with only a small amount of slack.
Directional
A directional simply guides the rope through an intermediate piece rather than tying the rope directly to it. The goal is to keep the rope running along a preferred path, away from edges, corners, or other obstacles. This is a familiar term from regular lead and top rope climbing. Re-direct is simply the verb of using directional.
While directionals down a route don’t isolate rope rubbing up and down on sharp edges, it really does help with side to side rope movement so it also is useful for reducing rope wear.
Unlike a re-anchor, a directional doesn't independently support the climber's load in the same way. Its primary purpose is to manage rope direction.
Plan the Rope Path Before You Start Climbing
As you rappel into a route, look for places where the rope might rub against an edge, wander into a corner, or create unnecessary friction. Decide whether a refix or directional is appropriate for the situation, and consider how the rope will move as you climb back up.
Once you reach the bottom, install your top rope solo devices, check the entire system, and start climbing. As you progress, you can clean intermediate gear when it's safe and appropriate to do so.
A deliberate re-anchor and re-direct setup can mean a cleaner rope path, less abrasion, and fewer interruptions during your TRS session.
